On the 16th we arrived at an aire on the eastern outskirts of Pamplona, in the very modern district of Sarriguren where part of the city’s university is based. The following day we caught a bus into the city centre. The centre has a mix of modern and very old architecture with lots of big tree lined avenues. The city’s old fortress has now been converted into a very peaceful park. There was also, of course, two excellent food markets.

The old town’s narrow streets were full of bars serving pintxos. In the Plaza del Castillo some more upmarket cafes could be found, including Cafe Iruna with it’s impressive wood panelled interior which opened in 1888. It’s list of famous customers includes Ernest Hemingway.

Pintxo Watch

The city is perhaps most famous for it’s bullring and twice-yearly bull run when bulls are driven through streets crowded with apparently crazy people who attempt to outrun the bulls or, at least, avoid the very sharp horns! Bull Fighting is a very anachronistic and divisive activity in these modern times but there is no doubt it has had a huge impact on the history and culture of the town. We took the tour of the bullring in an attempt to understand this history.

We drove north from the city, north towards San Sebastian on the 18th. The route took us through mountains passes at the western end of the Pyrenees – some of the most spectacular scenery we had seen to date (and some amusing signs encouraging you not to get too close to lorries)!